Traditional Naoussa Xinomavro was aged in large oak for 1-3 years. It worked but masked terroir. Apostolos took the radical step of maturing some wines in concrete or steel with wild yeast, no filtration, minimum sulphur. The result was Xinomavro that tasted like the PLACE rather than the winemaking. When tasted side-by-side with oak-aged Naoussa, the difference is startling: the fresh version has raw red fruit, wild herbs, violets. The oak version has more structure and spice. Neither is wrong - they're two different arguments about the same grape. In the tasting room, ask to taste the 'Jeunes Vignes' (young vines) version alongside whichever reserve is available. This comparison - across vine age, not just winemaking - is the heart of what Thymiopoulos is exploring.
🔄 BACKUP: Even if only one wine is poured, ask: 'Does this wine use any oak?' The answer tells you which of his 10 expressions you're tasting.